Shimla’s Gunj Bazaar

 Shimla's Gunj Bazaar.

Chaos is the right word to describe the scene at Gunj Bazaar in Shimla at about 7.00am everyday, what the author remembers when he was in his early teens in the fifties. My job Saturday morning was to bring warm milk and bread to my dad for breakfast. Shimla Gunj Mandi became operational at approximately 6 a.m. If I remember correctly sixty years later, the farmers who grew vegetables, potato, fruits in the surrounding areas would bring their produce to sell to their favorite “Arhatiya” (Commission Agent) store. It was weighed and dumped in a heap and auctioned. There were quite a few Arhatiyas in the Gunj Bazaar, mostly Suds/Soods. The farmer preferred the Arhatiya who sold his produce fast and gave him his money right away. The auctioneer of the Arhatiya, usually on top of his voice, begins the bidding process. So are the other Arhatiyas. They may be selling different items. The Arhatiya concurrently could be auctioning other items also. In the din of this noisy operation a few buyers gather around and start to bid. The bidding continues until no more bids are received. The highest bidder gets the goods. He directs the farmer to pick up his money at the cashier’s desk (Munim). The farmer gets his money, the Arhatiya makes a note of the buyer and his final bid and directs him to pay to the Munim. If his credit is good then he can pay at the end of the day. Otherwise, he will pay interest on the sums due. For all his services, the Arhatiya receives a commission of 6%. That commission over the years made the Arhatiyas wealthy. It so happens sometimes that no suitable bidder emerges, then the Arhatiya himself buys it at the agreed price with the farmer and sells it the next day at the most. In any case the farmer gets his money.

It's a noisy, tedious and chaotic operation. In Shimla and also in other cities, a similar routine is followed. It is a bit different story for grain wholesaling including for wheat, sugar, grams, barley, etc. Shimla and surrounding areas do not produce these items, hence these are sourced from ‘Mandis’ in Punjab in a truck or wagon loads. These are brought from the railway Godown or truck stops on mules to the Gunj Bazar* and available for sale to retailers at a wholesale price. No auctioning takes place. Only 1 or 2 wholesalers deal with a specific item, so the retailer knows where to turn for his needs. The price may be at a maximum deviation of 1 or 2%, depending on the quality and source. An oral order is placed and the article is delivered to the buyer at the agreed price. Payment is due on the same day or their is interest on the outstanding amount. It is a heavy money and financial operation and the ups and downs of the market in the plains directly affect the Arhatiyas fortunes. I have heard from my father that he lost tons of money in 1950 sourcing lentil ‘daal’ in wagon loads and kept in Godown, hoping for prices to increase, which instead, got depressed and he and his partner lost huge sums of money. Consequently, it is a difficult operation and requires an enormous financial muscle.

* There was a ropeway built around the 1930s to transport the heavy stuff from Rail Godown to the Gunj market. It broke down and was never repaired after a short operation. Later it was dismantled.

This Gunj wholesale Market in its simplest form described above got organized immediately after the fire on the Ridge in 1876. There was a clearing beneath the lower bazaar, except for a few trees and barn since 1848 and nothing else. Hence that was the most practical and available place. Previously this area was used to park mules, horses and other animals away from the Upper Bazaar. The Shimla municipality developed the site, built structure to house the Arhatiyas and the wholesalers and then leased it to them. Lala Puran Mull (later Rai Sahib) served as the principal tenant in 1880. Other people, mostly Sud/Sood businessmen were also lessees but the Rai Sahib Puran Mull was head of the flock. 

It was Assistant Commissioner William Edwards, who, in 1848, had relocated the stables of unsightly animals here, far from the upper bazaar on the ridge. When the idea was mooted to relocate wholesale market here, the animal shelters were relocated to the Cart Road. Still, this spot continued to bear the Edward’s name. 

When the leases for this newly built space were made available, it was stipulated that only wholesale business would be conducted here. As stated earlier, the largest tenant and wholesaler was Rai Sahib Lala Puran Mull. He was not only an Arhatiya but sourced grain and other produce for local consumption from the plains of Punjab. As a principle supply agent for the British in the area, he filled orders for all the British gentry, Hotels, restaurants, schools and others. He was continuing with the same line of business which his father Lala Nidha Mull started together with three other partners to supply Lt. Pratt Kennedy in 1931.

Except meat products, Lala was supply agent for everything else. The meat products were handled by Bennett & Co on the newly built ‘The Mall’.......... Lala had purchase agents all over in the plains of Punjab including my ancestors and kept steady stream of supplies coming. Later he got tax free status for all supplies for the British. Soon, the popular Lala supplied all the district of Mahasu, including the princely states. His honesty and unmatched business skill made him a reliable supplier, a banker and a property owner. Lala spoke no English, but conversed with the British gentry thru other people. All dealings were kept easy and straight. At its peak in 1920 he had six other smaller partners and a group of accountants who took care of all his affairs. He was awarded the title of Rai Sahib around that time.

The Edward Gunj continued to progress and function until the mid-fifties. Around that time, there was a change in the way business was conducted. The big retailers did not order their goods via wholesalers in the Gunj. They directly ordered from the suppliers. The metalling of the Shimla-Kalka road meant that store owners in the interior could have their supplies delivered to their doorsteps by trucks. Later, in the 1960s, the British and Rajahs lost the luxury of tax exemption. Local fruit, potato and vegetable farmers were not obliged to go to the Gunj to sell their produce. They were approached directly by the purchaser. Hence the Arhatiya business by 1980s was on its last gasp, only the wholesaling business continued but on a lower scale. 

Today that the prosperous Gunj Bazaar of the 1950s has a dilapidated look. Most, previous resident Arhatiya have taken up other lines of businesses. Retailers have invaded the area. Where there used to be intensive auctions taking place, spices and other goods are sold by new retailers. 

Times have changed, but it is still known as Edward Gunj. It may revoke old memories, but those are memories only.

Cheers.......