Haatos of Shimla

 Haatos of Shimla

The year was1984 and I was taking my 8 years old son to Shimla. It was his second or third visit, but he was too young to recall anything. He didn't speak Indian languages, but he did have some understanding of our Pahari dialect. We had taken a bus to Shimla. The mountains, the deep gorges and the difficult bus trip fascinated him. 

Upon arriving at Shimla Bus Stand, he observed, men chasing the bus. The bus had slowed down, hence they could keep pace with it. Suddenly a young man thrust his badge thru the open window. My son was wondering - what was that for? As far as he was concerned, it was something new. I knew that the guy running alongside the bus is a porter, he was thrusting his badge into our hands so that we hire him to carry our baggage or be our Shimla guide. That was the way of life in Shimla. He earned money and supported his family back home. Suddenly I read the number 0599 on his badge. I immediately recalled this badge number. It belonged to one guy “Ikramullaha” from my boyhood days. Ikramullaha was a porter at my father’s shop who made deliveries as ordered. He was resident porter at the shop and delivered grocery purchases to the clients all over Shimla. There were two other “Paledaars”, the sturdy Jats of Amritsar who lifted 100kg sacks of flour, sugar, rice, etc. and stored them in the right order in the Godown. They rarely went out for deliveries. That was Ikramullaha’s  job. Every time I went to the shop, Ikramullaha will play with me to his full. He was always overjoyed to see me around. My mother once asked my father, why is Ikramullaha overjoyed to see me around. He told her that back home in Kashmir, he has a son of my age. He misses him hence overjoyed to see me.

As I got off the bus, this young man who had put his badge in our hand awaited us. He asked me - how much baggage do we have on the bus rack? I said only two. He got on the bus roof and pried them out of the maze of other baggage and brought them down. He asked me which hotel do I have to go, and I pointed in the direction of my in-laws house. He was disappointed because he thought I was a tourist and he will make extra money by acting as a tour guide. Anyway, he took the job. As he placed a rope to secure the two suitcases on his back, he asked me - how did I know Ikramullaha? I told him the badge and the number on it belonged to someone called Ikramullaha 30 years ago. His eyes lit up and he said he was “my grandfather”. He said that after his grandfather, his father did the same job for 20 years and for the last two years, he is doing it together with the job of a tourist guide. 

Now I am very fascinated that an old acquaintance has been stuck. He asked me if I remembered that old scar on the forehead of his grandfather and I said yes. I was assured, as he was too, that we were speaking of the same person. I asked him his name and he replied “Irfan”. I asked him about Ikramullaha. At 75 years of age, he was leading a quiet life in the village. In his place he had sent his son to work. And now I began on the same line. This job has a good cash. He no longer works with shop owners, they pay much less. Over here he can collect twice as much, the badge is the key to the income.

The Kashmiri porters of Shimla, commonly called «Haatos», practice their trade with the local population, but especially with tourists who come for a short time. There are around 10,000 in Shimla. The educated ones like Irfan also act as tourist brokers, guides and porters to anybody who will hire their services. Others are porters only. First time I saw Kashmiri Haatos was in the fifties. They came here to escape unemployment and King's unhealthy practice, «Begari», where the king uses their services for free. Upon arrival, they are checked in by the police and a badge is issued, unless you already have one. Sturdy from physic but with no other skills, they end up being a porter in Shimla. The current crop like this young man has been to school and probably 20 to 23 of age. Now they are Shimla’s identity. They control the tourist Sheparding  business. Without them, everyday tourists will never find a place to park or places to see.  

In less than ten minutes, I was at my in-laws house and I paid him 200 Rupees/-. He would not accept. My in-laws & I did not understand why he is not accepting that generous wage for his short duration of the work. They did not know about the connection between me and his grandfather. Eventually, he agreed, thanked me a hundred times and promised me that he would come back to talk about his grandfather.

Three days later he returned with another man and asked for me by my middle name. That middle name, only my father used to call me. The senior man said that he is the Irfan’s father. After 10 seconds, he said I was Ikramullah's son. Now bells started to ring in my head. In his halting Hindi asked me whether I am the Lala’s son who had the corner “Arhat” in Gunj Bazaar. I did not acknowledge that question. He said, “When I was a kid in my village in Kashmir, every time my father went home, he talked about you.” “I am so pleased to meet you in person”, he said. “My son (Irfan) has told me about you and since then I have been looking forward to meet you.” “I am Imtiaz”. Now the whole family collected around me. He asked me about the Lala (my father) and I said that he passed away six years ago. Later he said that Ikramullaha is still living. He is not able to work, but he continues his daily routine at the age of 75. And he shook my hand and said goodbye to me... Khooda Hafiz. 

What a connection made, and that thru their badge.

On my return trip, I wasn't getting on a bus. My wife had rented a car and we were returning in that. Irfan, the ever present porter and tourist guide saw me asking for help on the Cart Road to bring the baggage and load it in the car. He jumped to help. I paid him liberally for his services. Now 35 years later I reminisce the connection I made. I have been to Shimla many times more often after 2010, but never run into Irfan again. 

Cheers....... (Real events dramatized)